The dryer coils open the gas valve on the dryer. When they receive full voltage from the radiant heat sensor they open the gas valve the full amount. If your dryer does ignite but still runs on forever the coils are probably failing. They tend to fail as they heat up so they might work hit or miss or if you shut it off and try again later it might work for a few minutes. The dryer coils are inexpensive and easy to replace.( Follow the link for videos on testing and replacing your dryer coils).
Gas dryer coils, also known as gas valve solenoids, are essential components in a gas dryer's burner assembly. They control the flow of gas to the burner, allowing it to ignite and produce heat for drying clothes. The gas dryer coils are typically made up of two separate coils or solenoids.
Here's how gas dryer coils work:
Gas Supply: The gas supply line delivers natural gas or propane to the dryer.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is located near the burner assembly and controls the flow of gas to the burner.
Solenoids: The gas dryer coils, or solenoids, are electromagnetic coils that open and close the gas valve. When energized, they create a magnetic field that pulls a plunger or valve open, allowing gas to flow through the valve. When de-energized, the magnetic field dissipates, and the plunger or valve closes, stopping the gas flow.
Ignition and Heat: When the gas valve is open, gas flows into the burner assembly, where it mixes with air. The gas is ignited by the dryer's igniter or a pilot flame, depending on the dryer model. The ignited gas produces heat, which is used to dry the clothes.
The function of the gas dryer coils is to control the opening and closing of the gas valve based on signals from the dryer's control system. They ensure that gas flows to the burner when needed and shuts off when not in use.
Over time, gas dryer coils can wear out or become faulty, resulting in problems such as the dryer not heating or intermittent heat. If you experience these issues, it may be necessary to replace the gas dryer coils

These are all different types of safety fuses located on your gas dryer. These are located in several different areas of the heating duct depending on the model. They are all easy to replace and all you need to do is check them for continuity. If they do not have continuity replace them, if they do they are good. Usually if you get some heat from the dryer these will not be the problem. If you have no heat at all and you already checked the dryer coils The rest of the sensors including the Thermal Fuse Or Hi Limit Thermostat, Radiant Heat Sensor And Cycling thermostat can all be accessed by the instructions at the bottom of page
Here's how the dryer thermal fuse works:
Overheating Protection: The thermal fuse is a safety measure to prevent the dryer from reaching excessively high temperatures, which could potentially cause a fire.
Heat Sensing: The thermal fuse is made up of a heat-sensitive material that expands or melts at a specific temperature. When the temperature inside the dryer exceeds the fuse's rating, the material activates and breaks the electrical circuit.
Interrupting Power: Once the thermal fuse is blown, it cuts off the power supply to the heating element or the entire dryer. This action prevents further heating and protects the dryer from potential damage.
Resetting: Unlike some other components, the thermal fuse is typically a one-time-use device and does not reset itself once it has blown. If the thermal fuse blows, it indicates an overheating issue that needs to be addressed before the fuse can be replaced.
If the dryer is not producing heat or is not turning on at all, a faulty thermal fuse may be the cause. In such cases, it is important to inspect and test the thermal fuse using a multimeter to determine if it has blown. If the thermal fuse is indeed blown, it should be replaced with a new one of the same rating. It is crucial to identify and address the underlying cause of the overheating to prevent the new thermal fuse from blowing again.

The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
The dryer cycling thermostat, also known as the operating thermostat or temperature control thermostat, is an essential component in a dryer's heating system. Its primary function is to regulate the dryer's internal temperature by cycling the heating element on and off.
Here's how the dryer cycling thermostat works:
Temperature Sensing: The cycling thermostat is typically located on the air duct or blower housing of the dryer. It measures the air temperature as it flows through the dryer during the drying cycle.
Temperature Control: The cycling thermostat is a temperature-sensitive switch that opens and closes to control the power supply to the heating element. When the temperature inside the dryer reaches the thermostat's preset temperature, it opens the circuit and interrupts the power to the heating element, causing it to turn off. As the temperature drops below the set threshold, the cycling thermostat closes the circuit, allowing the heating element to turn on and resume heating.
Maintaining Consistent Temperature: By cycling the heating element on and off, the cycling thermostat helps maintain a consistent temperature within the dryer. This control ensures that the dryer does not overheat or exceed safe operating temperatures.
Safety Features: The cycling thermostat also acts as a safety device to prevent the dryer from overheating. If the dryer's temperature rises above a certain limit, indicating a potential malfunction, the cycling thermostat will open the circuit and shut off power to the heating element, preventing further heating and potential damage.
If the cycling thermostat becomes faulty or fails, it can lead to various issues with the dryer's heating process. These can include insufficient heat, overheating, or the dryer not heating at all. If you suspect a problem with the cycling thermostat, it may need to be tested with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly. If the cycling thermostat is found to be defective, it should be replaced with a new one

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.
The thermal fuse allows power to run thru it. Anything creating an overload of power could cause this fuse to blow. Some dryers use more than one thermal fuse. They vary in location depending on the model. They are usually located on the blower housing or near the heating element. They are easy to check with a multimeter. Place one test lead on each terminal and you should have a reading of zero if not you will need to replace the dryer's thermal fuse. To remove or test the Thermal Fuse Follow these instructions here.
Locate the thermal fuse:
Many newer dryers have a lower access panel that can be removed. If yours does not try this here
First Disconnect Power

Pull Dryer away from wall to give access.
Then you should see two screws located at back top of dryer (As seen in photo)
Remove these two screws.
Now you will be able to grab the top by the sides and push back panel slightly and lift off.

Now that the top is off. This allows access to the two screws holding your front console on. At the top usually one on each upper corner you will see a screw. (As seen in photo) Before removing these screws take a photo of wiring on the back then remove screws.

If you are removing the console unplug any connectors make sure to have good photo of the wiring. Now remove the console. Usually, enough wire to swing out of the way if not removing completely.

This will give you access to the 2 top screws of the front panel. As seen in photo. Do not remove these screws yet we will come back to them.

Best to remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the dryer front panel. You might need to prop up the dryer to get access.

Next there are usually 2 screws located behind the door on the front panel. Remove these 2 screws.

Photograph connector at door switch and light. Now remove the 2 top screws exposed earlier. Hold the front panel in place as you remove these screws. Slowly tilt the panel forward and unplug remaining connectors. Panel is now removed. The tub is now easily moved so be careful it can fall out on some models.