Electric Dryer Troubleshooting

Disconnect your dryer from the power source before performing any repairs or diagnosing

Door switch

The door switch allows the dryer to start turning only when the door is closed. If the dryer does not start when the door is closed, then the door switch may be defective. Locate your dryer's door switch. It will be near the door opening. To remove the switch depends on the model. On some dryers the switch will have a tab that allows it to be removed or a screw. On some models you will need to remove the front panel. Once you have access to the door switch use a multimeter to test the switch. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. To test the switch place one lead on each terminal. With the switch open you should have no reading then press the switch in, your reading should be near zero. If not, the door switch needs to be replaced.

Thermal Fuse

This is a small usually white plastic fuse about an inch long and 3/8 inch wide with 2 terminals. The thermal fuse allows power to run thru it. Anything creating an overload of power should cause this fuse to blow. Some dryers use more than one thermal fuse. They vary in location depending on the model. They are usually located on the blower housing or near the heating element. They are easy to check with a multimeter. Place one test lead on each terminal and you should have a reading of zero if not you will need to replace the dryer's thermal fuse. To replace the thermal fuse, remove the screw and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screw and connect the wiring.

Cycling Thermostat

This is usually round and located on the blower housing or along the duct. The cycling thermostat controls the temperature the airflow is running at by cycling on and off. This is easy to check disconnect the wiring and connect each test leads to the terminals. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected you should have a reading of zero if not replace the cycling thermostat. To replace the cycling thermostat, remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screws and connect the wiring.

Hi Limit Switch

The hi limit switch is located along the exhaust duct sometimes near the blower wheel. The hi limit switch detects the amount of heat leaving the machine. If it gets to hot it blows and needs to be replaced. This is usually caused by a clogged exhaust duct or lint trap. The high limit switch is usually round with 2 terminals. To check the hi limit switch disconnect the wiring. This is easy to check connect each test leads to the terminals. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected you should have a reading of zero if not replace the hi limit switch. To replace the hi limit switch remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screw and connect the wiring.

Heating Element

The heating element is a coil of wire inside of a duct usually near the blower wheel. The heating elements heats up and the blower wheel pushes air past into the dryer. The heating element is easy to check disconnect the wiring and connect each test leads to the terminals. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected you should have a reading of usually between 9-13 ohms if not replace the heating element. To replace the heating element, remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screws and connect the wiring.

Cool Down Thermostat

The cool down thermostat is usually located near the blower wheel along the duct. The cool down thermostat allows the dryer control to know when the dryer has cooled sufficiently. The cool down thermostat will keep the drum motor turning until the temperature has been reached. If the cool down thermostat fails it can cause the dryer to not run at all or keep running until it is unplugged. The cool down thermostat is easy to check disconnect the wiring and connect each test leads to the terminals. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected you should have a reading of near zero if not replace the cool down thermostat. To replace the cool down thermostat, remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screws and connect the wiring.

Push Start Switch

The start switch turns on the machine when pressed in. This is quite easy to check once you have access to the start switch. This varies depending on the model. On some models the start switch is on the top of the dryer. On others you may need to remove the front panel. Once you access the start switch disconnect the wires and connect your multimeter to each lead. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected to each lead you should have no reading and when depressed in you should have a reading near zero, if not replace the push start switch. To replace the push start switch, remove the screws, and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned and reinstall the screw and connect the wiring.

Timer

The timer is usually located on the top of the dryer in the control console. The timer controls the amount of time for the machine to run along with allowing the heating element and drum motor to turn on. The timer is easy to check. Once you access the timer disconnect the wires and connect your multimeter to each lead. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected to each lead you should have a reading between 2000 – 3000 anything outside this range you will need to replace the timer. To replace the timer, remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned and reinstall the screws and connect the wiring.

Thermistor

The thermistor measures the temperature of the air running through the supply duct. On some models it can also measure the moisture content within the air. The thermistor can send a signal to the main control of the conditions it detects. The thermistor is easy to check disconnect the wiring and connect each test leads to the terminals. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected you should have a reading of near 11 at room temperature. The reading varies depending on the temperature. Thermistor readings not close to this reading should replace the thermistor. To replace the thermistor, remove the screws and put new part in same location sometime a small metal tab holds it aligned, reinstall the screws and connect the wiring.

Blower Wheel

The blower wheel supplies air to the dryer. It is located along the duct that supplies the dryer. The blower wheel can become loose and cause it to fail. To replace the blower wheel, watch the below video.

Drum Motor

The drum motor turns the dryer's drum. The drum is full of holes allowing warm air to be blown thru as it turns. The drum motor is located somewhere along the bottom panel. Depending on the model will determine how to access. Some dryers will need the front panel removed and other models will be the rear panel. The Drum Motor is easy to check. Once you access the drum motor disconnect the wires and connect your multimeter to each lead. The meter should be set for checking continuity on the 1x scale. Once connected to each lead you should have a reading of zero. Then connect one lead to the motor housing and the other lead to each terminal one at a time. You should have no reading. If either test fails, you will need to replace the drum motor.

Electronic Control Module

The electronic control module is the main control board for the dryer. The electronic control module controls the time heat and drum motor operation much like a timer in a non-digital dryer. The testing varies from models and specifications can usually be found in the technical sheets that are attached to the dryer. Also a very close inspection of the circuit board for burn marks or burnt smell can indicate the need to replace the electronic control module. To replace the electronic control module

Terminal Block

The Terminal block is where power enter your dryer. The terminal block is located at the back of your dryer where the cord enters. The cord is connected to the terminal block. To see if you need to replace the terminal block look carefully at the block for burn marks or melted/discolored wires. If you see any defects you will need to replace the terminal block. Check to make sure the wires are tight. Depending on the model there could be from 1 -3 screws holding the terminal block on. Remove all wires connected to the terminal block. (Recommend taking a photo) Then remove the mounting screws. To replace your terminal block put in same position as old terminal block ensuring all internal wires are routed properly. Reinstall the screws. Then connect a new dryer cord.